The Better Beamer Flash-X-tender - projecting your flash/strobe light
|With on-camera flash.|
|Black squirrel. He/she was there for seconds so not sharp, but indicates red eye.|
|The fresnel lens of the Better Beamer.|
|The Better Beamer on a Nikon SB600. This also shows a DIY lens support I built |
for the 300mm plus 2x extender, more on that later. Amy Newman photo.
|A wood duck, lit with the Beamer. Not as tack sharp as I would like because I was following the |
duck with the equivalent of an 850 mm lens (300mm x 2x ext on 1.5 sensor.) Richard Wright photo.
I did some rudimentary testing in Vancouver’s Lost Lagoon duck pond in Stanley Park on a cold and grey winter day and it worked well. It is good idea to try and point the fresnel lens or beamer so it focuses light where your lens is focused. Usually this means pointing it down a little. Also, there is a slip inside the packaging warning you to set your flash head zoom (if your flash has a zoom) to the wide angle setting, and, that the beamer is only meant for lenses 300mm or longer. You can use it on shorter focal length lenses if you want an effect similar to a snoot, a cone of light that does not fill the frame. If you use the Beamer too close, say within 20 feet, however, you may get some over exposure. And, while that 2-stop increase will get the flashes light out there further once it drops off it drops off quickly. Remember all those early lessons on light that you may have taken and the Inverse Square Law. “The intensity of illumination is proportional to the inverse square of the distance from the light source.” Twice the distance equals ¼ the light, not ½ the light.
|Goldeneye duck with Beamer. Same issues as the wood duck. Richard Wright photo|
|CU of a Mute Swan, with all of the above equipment. |
Note how the flash highlights the water drops. Richard Wright photo
|"Like water off a 'swan's' back." Richard Wright photo.|
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